T. Perks
57 posts
Joined: 19/11/2006 09:21:16
Location: Wotton under Edge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
1275cc Head
Just remembered you might have to grind the top of the water pump to give clearance to bolt the head down also use the small diameter pump pulley.
Posted: Feb 22, 2007 08:54 PM
Bobster
71 posts
Joined: 23/08/2007 15:49:09
Location: Barnsley United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Fanbelt pulley Removal
You said to remove the water pump, but what part is the thing between the pump and the place where the bolts are?Is it some sort of spacer?or pulley?
Posted: Mar 23, 2008 09:23 PM
Luis
2 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 18:09:11
Location: Portalegre Portugal
chrome parts
Thanks to your answer! but i already saw the WP site and i didn't find any engine parts in chrome, like clutch case cover, motor start, water pump pulley, radiator top bracket and radiator cowling one piece!please let me know if someone knows anything!
Posted: Feb 22, 2009 01:01 AM
paul humphries
14 posts
Joined: 01/03/2011 21:45:36
Location: St Johns Chapel United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Squeak
Hi, had a squeak from engine that varied with engine revs thought it was the water pump. Fitted new pump and if anything squeak is louder. Could it be the alternator bearings or crank pulley?
Posted: Nov 11, 2012 10:11 AM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
MG Metro engine into Mini
Ihave studdied this over the last week, my 1990 cooper has a flat side to the breather, and a small shim on the fan, so it has clearance. my 1275gt has a normal A+ breather, but there is a larger shim on the water pump pulley so clearance is easily reached. i would imagine the larger shim could be fitted on the normal mini, as all the radiator fixings are the same, the distances must also be the same.
Posted: Mar 24, 2007 09:00 AM
Nugget3574
Joined: 06/07/2005 18:59:56
Location: Bracknell United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
screaming from engine??? help anyone
My K reg mini cooper 1275 has started to make a loud screaming noise whenever i speed up. i have checked the fan belt and that has been changed however the noise is still there. Any one got any ideas what it could be? Have been told that it could be the water pump? but there are no water leaks? have wd40 the pulleys and that stops the noise temporarily. Has anyone got any ideas?
Posted: Dec 08, 2005 06:30 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Made a wally brain mistake!
If you've got the alternator pushed as far towards the block as it will go (it should be touching - make sure there's nothing obstructing it) then the belt ought to slip on fairly easily. There's no stretch in a belt - old or new - but it's possible someone's fitted the wrong belt in the past, or fitted an oversize water pump or alternator pulley, so take it along to your nearest motor spares shop (not Halfords, if at all possible), ask to see the one they think should fit your car, compare the two, and if they're exactly the same ask them to find one just slightly bigger.
Posted: Aug 08, 2007 03:52 PM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Constant whining sound from engine!
one other thing worth cheaking is water pump these often whine when they are on there way out. little oil in hole in pump can stop it but will be on its way out if it is whining, cheak for play in the pulley.
Posted: Jan 04, 2008 11:07 PM
Loud creak/squeal on pulling away from stop
its normally either fan belt slipping or water pump bearings failing. cheak water pump pulley for excess play. for monent swert engine oil in the hole in the top of the water pump that will keep it going a bit longer. id also jack car up and cheak wheel bearing play.
Posted: Jan 24, 2008 10:11 AM
piccio
30 posts
Joined: 14/12/2004 22:04:39
Location: Olgiate Comasco (CO) Italy
cooling
just out of curiosity, was the 6 blade fan noticably louder than the plastic one? what pulley are you running on the water pump? cheers
Posted: Aug 15, 2005 03:52 PM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Procedure for solving a squeaky fan belt
If the squeak goes away as you increase the revs then yes it is a squeaky fan belt. Traditionally cured by adjusting the tension on the fan belt by lossening the alternator mounts and adjusting the belt tension until there is about 1/2inch deflection when pressing the middle of the belt between alternator and bottom pulley. tighten it up again while keeping the tension on the belt. DO NOT use a lump of wood to lever the alternator out to give tension as this overloads the bearings and causes the alternator to fail.
There is a can of spray available that stops belts squeaking - used it on my mates F*rd diesel pickup t'other week. This had a noisy aircon belt that has an automatic tensioner so couldn't be adjusted. Sprayed the stuff on and it has been nicely quiet ever since.
If that doesn't cure it then it may be the water pump bearings starting to fail. With the engine turned off, check for water loss from the drain hole underneath the water pump spindle (just in from the edge of the pulley groove) as generally the bearings fail as the glands have gone hard and have let hot water into the ball races.
Posted: Apr 26, 2011 09:33 AM
jag_clarke
re
u want it tight enouth not to slip and not so tight or u will destroy water pump bearings. u may need to degrease pullys if they have alot of oil on or something causing it to slip. if they slip for a long time they do tend to get polished which doesnt help matters. what do you mean by pulley should get milled?
Posted: May 14, 2009 10:47 PM
MY HEATER ONLY BLOWS COLD
water pumps either work or leak and fail as they are very simple a pulley on the end of a bar with blades that push the water around. if ur motor isnt over heating it still may be an air lock as cant really see what else it could be. if engine isnt overheating thermostate is working, if its flushed its not blocked, if u took hose off heater and not water comming out id think air lock if motor not overheating. if you have the heater take off from left of head it will be running even with thermostate closed if heater valve is open if u have heater pipe of thermostate housing it will only work with thermostate open. will have little water cold as holes in thermostate but not enouth to warm it.
Posted: Dec 04, 2007 01:04 AM
Fast and hot!! Mini overheating.
Hello again 808,
The SPI system controls the mixture. It is driven by the Lambda sensor in the exhaust downpipe, the throttle open position and the engine temperature gauge. Adjusting the mixture is preset by the ECU mapping so providing this hasn't been tampered with then the fault is probably with the lambda or temp sensors as the first culprits. Running lean at high speeds will cause higher engine temperatures (and ultimately ruin the head gasket or 'hole' a piston) and is to be avoided. Try cleaning the lambda sensor first but they tend to not like being pulled around so you may have to change it anyway.
Silly question - is the fan belt pulley adjusted ok? If this is bottoming out or is a bit loose it may be slipping at high revs and not working the water pump efficiently.
Other reasons for the water pump not working at high revs are:
1. Silted radiator hoses and water jacket. Run some RadFlush through the system to clean it. Turning on the internal heater acts as a second radiator and brings the heat back down.
2. Failed thermostat. The wax in the thermostat may have gone hard and is no longer opening the thermostat fully at high temperatures thereby allowing the latent heat to build up in the block. Turning on the internal heater acts as a second radiator and brings the heat back down.
3. Cheap after market replacement with a pressed steel impeller - the impellers rot away and you end up with not a lot of water being moved around. The overheating will get worse over time. The only way to check is to remove the water pump but at least this means you can flush out the block with a hosepipe while it is off.
4. Customised engine spec with higher rev range. It is possible to over-rev the water pump so that it creates 'cavitation' around the impeller rather than pushing the water around the system. It is common on race engines to alter the pulleys on the crank and pump so that the gearing remains low despite higher engine revs. If you're car is completely stock then ignore this point.
Posted: Jun 04, 2013 11:45 AM
RIchk
76 posts
Joined: 09/11/2007 13:11:20
Location: Edinburgh United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
belt
whats the condition of your water pump. an early sign of pump failure is a screaming belt on startup. i noticed that part of the failure is knackered water seals, that in turn leaks onto the pulley/belt, causing it to slip.
you could check your pump by removing belt (or slackening it enough) and spin the pump/blades. if it spins very freely, then your seals may have gone. there should be a little bit of resistance in the water pump
Posted: May 14, 2009 04:15 PM
J. Lyon
214 posts
Joined: 11/12/2006 18:57:13
Location: Colorado springs United States
Yet another squeal problem!
Okay, so I had a water pump going bad, so I replaced everything in the cooling system except the radiator(hoses, water pump, thermostat and housing) and after filling her with new coolant there is this god awful squeal coming from that area. I already checked the belt, it's not loose. The only thing that makes sense is that I perhaps put the fan spacer on the wrong side of the pulley and it has put the fan to close to the radiator and as the blades skimming the fins on the radiator it is causing a squeal. However the problem with that theory is that the squeal goes away after a second or two of steady throttle. And, yes, it does increase with rpm's. I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. And advice is needed and welcome!
-James
Posted: Jan 25, 2008 04:52 PM
Choke problems!?
the high pitched sqweel if not belt is usually water pump (had it twice b4 on diff cars). there is an oiling hole at the top put some engine oil though there is will help for moment (hole was put in for this purpous and also to allow water to escap that gets past the seals without going through bearings causing further damage. cheak for play in pulley id expect ul find some if its sqweeling. sqweeling is a sign of failure so if there is play also id make it a priority to get it done soon. it may keep going for while longer few thousand miles even but eventually either the seal will fail and ul loose all ur water from ur engine boiling it, or it has been known for the pully to shear off causing damage as it flys off.
as for choke maybe ur car is already running rich so pulling choke out will make it too rich and so flood it.?
Posted: Jan 17, 2008 12:26 PM
LewisCr125
136 posts
Joined: 13/04/2006 17:03:39
Location: Old Knebworth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Over Heating
Sounds like your engine temp is related to the engine speed. In town the engine doesn't stay at a high rpm for a long period of time. But on the highway the engine will be at high revs for long period of time.
You could do a test on your drive way. Get the engine to running temperature (best way is to drive it) and leave it on tick over for 5-10 mins. keeping an eye on the temp so it doesn't over heat. Then simulate driving on the high way by somehow keeping the throttle down so it's at about the same revs as it is driving. Again leave for a few mins and watch the temperature. Make sure your neighbours don't mind you revving your engine for 10 mins.
Was the correct water pump fitted? Is the pulley the right size? If the pulley is too large then it would not spin fast enough.
Posted: Jan 31, 2007 05:37 PM
The year of the car is 1987, and the model is a Cooper, with a 1275cc A+ engine, i believe it is the pulley below the water pump and not the thermostat (sorry), i have uploaded the image to help as the engine is currently out of the car, sat on a trolley at the back of the garage.
The picture shows the fan is off, but the pulley and spacer still attached to the engine.
Posted: Jan 13, 2008 03:14 PM
Well i am looking to replace the water pump. but its proving difficult to find a pump with that pulley on, i can buy a product from mini spares that is similar but its not a direct part of the pump. Iv been reading around and it may be some sort of device that reduces horsepower drain when driving the fan, but i cant buy a pump already set up like this.
Regards,
Rob
Posted: Mar 24, 2008 09:03 AM